Interview with Bernice (Yamagara)

Some encounters are worth waiting for, even if it takes a few missed opportunities along the way.

I have traveled to Singapore many times, and each visit has left me wanting more. If you have never been to this part of the world, there is so much to experience: a vibrant culture, extraordinary food, and an energy that is both dynamic and deeply welcoming. But enough of me giving you FOMO.

Bernice and Woolfolk have been collaborating on pattern designs since 2022. When I learned that Bernice was based in Singapore, I immediately reached out in hopes of meeting her in person. Unfortunately, despite our best intentions and several attempts, our schedules have yet to align.

One of the things I value most in life is the opportunity to connect with people who share a common passion. There is something uniquely meaningful about sitting across from another maker, exchanging stories, and discovering the paths that led us to our shared love of fiber arts. Since our in-person meeting has yet to happen, I thought an interview would be the next best thing.

Like any good piece of knitting, some connections take time before every stitch falls into place. Until the day we finally meet in person, I hope you enjoy getting to know Bernice through this conversation as much as I did. Beyond her beautiful designs, I came away with an even greater appreciation for her thoughtful perspective, quiet creativity, and the warmth she brings to our craft.

Vanessa
Creative Director at Woolfolk

 

V: WHEN DID YOU START KNITTING, AND WHEN DID YOU BEGIN DESIGNING KNITTING PATTERNS?

B: My journey with yarn began when I was six years old, living with my grandmother. Tucked away among the things in her house, I found a Japanese crochet book, along with some yarn and a hook. I couldn’t read a single word, but the charts and diagrams spoke their own language. I followed the symbols and somehow the patterns worked. I still remember the excitement of watching something take shape in my hands and the joy that came with it. Years later, as an adult, I encountered Japanese knitting books and was immediately drawn to them because of that early experience.

In 2010, I finally taught myself how to knit through online tutorials, and before long, I found myself returning to those beautifully charted Japanese knitting patterns. Since I didn’t have access to the recommended yarns, I often had to knit at different gauges. This pushed me to make adjustments and calculate changes so the garments would fit me properly. At the time, it felt like problem-solving but looking back, that was when I was learning the fundamentals of pattern design. In 2015, I created my first original design, a cardigan for my daughter. It wasn’t until 2017 that I officially published my first pattern, a summer pullover.

V: IS DESIGNING KNITTING PATTERNS YOUR FULL-TIME JOB?

B: Yes, since I stopped teaching art in my home studio two years ago, designing knitting patterns has been my full-time focus. My background spans drawing and painting, architecture, and years of teaching art, all of which inform my work today. I’m especially drawn to the balance between creative thinking and the meditative rhythm of knitting, as well as the connection it creates with knitters worldwide.

V: WHAT STEPS DO YOU GO THROUGH TO BRING A DESIGN IDEA TO LIFE? DO YOU OFTEN START WITH SKETCHES, OR IS YOUR PROCESS MORE HANDS-ON AND INTUITIVE?

B: My creative process often begins with the yarn itself, allowing its unique qualities to guide each design. I usually start by making swatches to understand how it behaves, then move between sketching and hands-on exploration, knitting small samples or even making paper models to better visualise the design in three dimensions as I develop construction, shaping, and details.

Himmel Tank / Find this pattern via Yamagara Knits

Detail of the Himmer Tank knit in Woolfolk Stra

V: EVERY DESIGN HAS A STORY, THOUGH MANY GO UNTOLD. COULD YOU SHARE THE MOST INTERESTING INSIGHT OR DISCOVERY YOU’VE HAD THROUGH YOUR KNITTING AND DESIGN PROCESS?

B: Very often, stitch patterns such as lace or cables carry the strongest visual language. Even from a distance, their decorative texture and movement stand out more than construction details or shaping, which are often subtle or only noticeable to the maker.

When designing the Himmel camisole, I imposed a constraint of no decorative lace or cables and instead used chevron shaping for the neckline and body. This created a challenge in resolving the zigzag edge into a straight hem, which led to the introduction of box pleats to even out the outline. Both elements were functional solutions, yet together they define the visual identity of the piece. It reinforced my belief that constraints can be a powerful design tool. By limiting decorative choices, the structure itself becomes the source of expression, often leading to unexpected and more considered design solutions.

The beginning of "Two in the afternoon Skirt"

Woolfolk Stra in color S2 and S10

V: WHAT’S MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU WHEN DESIGNING A PATTERN—CHOOSING THE YARN AND ITS TEXTURE OR DEVELOPING THE PATTERN ITSELF?

B: For me, the yarn sets the foundation for a design, as it determines the season, drape, and character of the fabric. The two-colour tweed pattern used in the Two in the Afternoon Tank and Skirt set in Woolfolk Stra emerged from exploring colour pairings within the Stra palette and discovering how well this elegant, heathered yarn works with the stitch pattern.

V: YOU HAVE A WONDERFUL SENSE OF STYLE AND AESTHETICS. COULD YOU SHARE HOW YOU DEVELOPED THIS SENSIBILITY?

B: Thank you, that’s a lovely compliment. I haven’t really thought of myself in those terms. I think my sense of style developed early on through a curiosity about Japanese knitwear design, particularly its minimal aesthetic, thoughtful construction, and the way even decorative elements are carefully considered and often constrained.

V: WHAT WAS THE FIRST ITEM YOU KNITTED, AND DO YOU STILL HAVE IT?

B: It was a simple garter stitch swatch, knitted using an acrylic craft yarn and the ends of two paint brushes I found in my home art studio. I had just watched an online tutorial on casting on and the knit stitch and felt the impulse to start immediately. The next day, I bought proper needles and better yarn and my first finished item after that was a mohair scarf. Unfortunately, I no longer have either of them.

V: WHICH WOOLFOLK YARN IS YOUR FAVORITE, AND WHY?

B: Hands down, Stra. I love it for many reasons. It has a perfect mix of wool and linen, creating softness and a beautiful heathered texture. I can pick any colour from the Stra palette and know I’ll love it. As a DK-weight yarn, it also knits up relatively quickly, especially compared to the fingering-weight yarns I often use. And the more I wear my Stra pieces, the softer they become.

"Two in the afternoon Skirt"

Woolfolk Stra yarn and Bernice's collectibles

V: WHAT ARE YOU CURRENTLY WORKING ON?

B: I’m currently managing the test knit of a camisole and working on a summer tee design, while also trying to finish a scarf in Stra for a friend. If time permits, I’d love to start knitting swatches with Woolfolk Brise and explore ideas for it.

V: BESIDES KNITTING, HOW DO YOU LIKE TO SPEND YOUR SPARE TIME?

B: I spend most of my spare time with my family. I used to have more time for ikebana, pottery, and meeting friends, but recently I’ve been focusing on caring for my mother. I enjoy cooking for her and spending time together.

V: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME. BEFORE WE WRAP UP, I’D LOVE TO ASK ONE FINAL QUESTION. IF YOU’RE OPEN TO SHARING, COULD YOU TELL US THE STORY BEHIND THE NAME YAMAGARA KNITS?

B: Yamagara was the name I chose when I first joined Instagram over 12 years ago to connect with makers around the world. It comes from a Yamagara bird featured on a block-printed ornament I bought in Takayama, Japan. When I started publishing my knitting designs, I adopted my Instagram name as my designer name, and Yamagara Knits was born. The ornament still hangs above my desk today. It reminds me of annual family trips to Japan and the joy and creativity of those early days in the online maker community.

V: That is such a beautiful story behind Yamagara Knits. Thank you for sharing that piece of your history with me. I wish you all the best in your future endeavors and may our paths cross again someday.

Visit Bernice’s website and her knitting page via Ravelry — Yamagara Knits and follow along @yamagara Bernice’s Instagram page for a glimpse of her latest knitting project.

All images provided by Bernice and Vanessa.